I'd originally planned to take a cruise down the Yangtze from southwest to central China, but the 0 degree weather and incessant mist changed my plans. I decided to take the train, Spring Festival season be damned, and joined the biggest annual migration on earth.
Leshan, Sichuan
Carved into a red sandstone cliff is the largest standing Buddha in the world, the Leshan Buddha. I crawled ant-like down his (its?) head and body.
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| Lotus Ear |
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| Guardian |
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| Earth |
Chongqing
This city left the biggest impression on me. At the confluence of two rivers, with little alleys hewn into undulating hills, it really did feel like the "Hong Kong of the West."
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| Light at the End of the Tunnel |
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| Brave New World |
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| View from my Hostel |
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| View from my Hostel II |
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| Old and New |
This city is caught between life and death, old and new.
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| Destroy, Destroy, Destroy |
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| Build, Build, Build |
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| Build, Build, Build |
On the outskirts of Chongqing, I stopped by Ciqikou, a Qing-dynasty old town that had mostly succumbed to tacky tourism. But there were a couple of authentic moments:
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Family Dinner
Ciqikou Old Town, Chongqing |
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Rice
Outside Ciqikou Old Town, Chongqing |
Hubei
Downstream, I stopped off at Yichang, a middling industrial town with spectacular views of the Yangtze.
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Farming the Yangtze
Yichang, Hubei |
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Yangtze Cargo
Yichang, Hubei |
I ended my journey in the treaty port of Wuhan (also the birthplace of the Revolution). The main bus station terminus at Hankou, Wuhan, was a sprawling mess, with motorcycles, buses and cars leading every direction. I was surprised by how much colonial architecture lined the Jiangtan (Wuhan's counterpart to Shanghai's Bund, Waitan). Walking across Wuhan's massive bridge reminded me of San Francisco and the plume of mist that shrouds the Golden Gate Bridge.
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Downtown
Wuhan, Hubei |
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Spanning the Yangtze
Wuhan, Hubei |
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Custom House
Wuhan, Hubei |
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My Hotel Along the River
Wuhan, Hubei |
I spent a lot of time at the Jiangtan, an uninterrupted stretch of urban beach along the Yangtze, in the heart of the city.
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Night-time Along the River
Wuhan, Hubei |
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Lantern
Wuhan, Hubei |